Posts

954 bronze

  Chirpy — Today at 7:27 AM nah, normal 954 bronze doesnt have silicon in it, just al-copper, and some iron, but most people just omit the iron when alloying it themselves [7:29 AM] you need fillets in corners of patterns, and thats why alot of people get hot tears in corners, they tend to add really tiny ones that doesnt really even show up, or none at all, which will create hot tears in castings no matter what you do for gating and will happen in all metals cast tbh, even cast aluminum [7:30 AM] as for shrinkage, it does shrink quite a bit, but if you gate it correctly, it is a dream to cast with and the riser/feeder will shrink like crazy and feed the casting, but that's all that you will have for shrinkage

rhubarb cake

  Carol Eisenbeisz Yellow cake mix mixed as directed. Pour into 13×9 inch pan. Sprinkle 2 C sugar, 2 cups chopped rhubarb, and pour 2 cups cream over all! Bake 350 x 1 hour or middle is set! Enjoy!!

Rod Test Again

 yea, thats why I recommend using the rod trick, you preheat a steel rod like 1/4" or 3/8" steel bar in the furnace exhaust, then stick it in the metal to see if everything has melted by poking the melt gently, and if it balls up on the rod, then it's too cold, if it wets to it, then it's perfect pouring temp, and if the tool repels the metal like a magnet, then it's too hot, but it's hard to get it that hot without vaporizing it really [8:57 AM] yea, looking at the pic, you can defenitely tell that it was poured way too cold [8:58 AM] it flowed in like hot taffy almost, just folding in on itself and freezing as it folded

Reassembling Atlas lead screw direction changing box

  Ronald Crowell  ( Atlas And Craftsman lathes) Facebppl (1) There are several things to pay attention to when assembling it. First, mount the assembled case on the lathe and thread the screw through all the parts including the 9-52A stub screw drive that goes on the left side. The screw aligns all the bores of the parts. (2) Do the following in the next paragraphs (3-) with only the above assembly (in (1), then install the inner gear guard over the case boss on the left. Look to see if it is flat against the head stock without needing to bend the case as in para (3). Then install the rest of the parts (spacer washer and a gear and the washer, nut) and repeat para (3) below. (3) With the 9-50A shift collar (dogs) in the middle (with the handle centered) you should be able to turn the screw with your fingers, and while doing so the stub end of the screw (that sticks out the left side) should not wobble at all. If the screw does not turn easily, then the lead screw is probably b...

HTD 3MM pitch sources

Belt and pulleys https://www.ebay.com/itm/142608886582?var=441582826460&fbclid=IwAR3Zi-lT5MtBe_Z4ZNbqCPw9-XjHI9nYAtcQqcb5DGvU6yBI0f7ni-KXDgw Belts https://www.ebay.com/itm/153508106737?var=453492499334&fbclid=IwAR2TXpnrJqlzKHv_X9zhrbGbKJ--bgBP0CdE3xORg0Ecz_J9AiE3POyGR7M  

Atlas TH54 Lathe apron assembly

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 Ronald Crowell Since you are new to this group, I'll assume you might find some info useful as follows. •1.a. The bearing stanchion has a shim under it so that its miter gear body will center on the lead screw for least drag. The 'U' shim (in the diagram, goes around the stanchion bolt) thickness must be determined for your new bearing stanchion. Note: It will not be necessary to repin the bearing stanchion to the apron with the original dowel pins, and in fact repinning it will likely locate it a small amount high or low causing it to drag on the screw. Leave the dowels out. •1b. So...first make sure your lead screw is straight and level (constant distance under and out) with the lathe bed ways and is the same distance its full length. Then, when the apron is bolted to the carriage and the bearing stanchion/miter gear assembly is loosely bolted to the back of the apron, move the carriage all the way to the left where the screw is least flexible and let the screw locate th...

Ronald Crowell: Discussion of acme lead screw stock

Ronald Crowell: Facebook Group: Atlas and Craftsman Lathes Do not get an "ACME threaded rod", get an "ACME lead screw". They are different!! I don't know what McMaster-Carr might send you. Another ACME lead screw provider is Roton, and their pricing is competitive. . An "ACME lead screw" will have rolled threads with a more precisely controlled runout and machined smooth flat thread lands (meaning the flats on the OD). An ACME "threaded rod" will likely have non-machined rolled threads with the tell-tale rolling pinched lands that are not machined. The differences are readily apparent when from low cost vendors and a decent lead screw is more costly than a threaded rod. In addition, the surface finish of a quality ACME lead screw is almost a mirror..not so with a threaded rod. . McMaster-Carr does not specify run-out tolerance on their lead screws like a real specialized lead screw manufacturer, but unless you are making long high precision t...